Do you own any tools that are MUST-HAVES? These are the tools that you can’t stop yourself from telling your friends and family about. These are the tools that you end up buying for your work crews because they make work that much easier.

A WoodNetter asked this question recently. In his words: “State your nomination and the reason why you consider the tool a no-contest, hands-down winner. To nominate a potential winner, you must have at least 2 years experience using the tool.”

The WoodNetters responded with some great suggestions, all of which I counted and present here to you. Note - I wrote about a similar thread in SawmillCreek recently: The 11 Top Woodworking Power Tools That Give 100% Satisfaction or Better

What are YOUR must-have tools? Post them in the comments to help other woodworkers and carpenters discover must-have tools!

1) Bosch PS20-2 Litheon 10.8-Volt Lithium-Ion Pocket Driver: 3 Votes

2) Starrett C33H-12-4R 12-Inch Combination Square: 3 Votes

3) 10″ Craftsman Radial Arm Saw: 2 Votes
(note - both guys who mentioned this saw as their #1 tool referred to older models no longer made… check your local craigslist)
C-Man RAS review
The Radial Arm Saw: Is This Tool Right for You?

4) Elu router 625: 2 Votes

5) low angle block plane: 2 Votes

6) DW621 router: 2 Votes

Safety Goggles

DeWalt DW715 12″ Compound Miter Saw

Veritas Saddle Square

(Veritas Saddle Square Review)

Bosch 1584AVSK Barrel Grip Jig Saw

Bosch 32614-2G 14v cordless drill

Irwin 6″ Bar Clamp

Makita 18 volt lithium ion drill

Incra Gauge

High quality infill smoother

Husquevarna 650 special

Source: Taking Nominations for Slam-Dunk, Power or Hand Tool Must-Haves

Great fence on a small table saw - does this exist? A woodworker went to the experts at WoodNet recently to find out. He said he’s looking for a portable table saw with a good fence… “Has anyone found one? I’m not expecting Biesemeyer quality here, but it shouldn’t be so damned hard to find one with a fence that locks tight front AND back and can actually be adjusted parallel to the miter slot or blade.”

The WoodNetters spoke up on fences. There were several who preferred either the Rigid or the DeWalt to the Bosch when it comes to the fence and accuracy. Here’s what they think:

Ridgid TS2400: 4 Votes

>>> comparison of the Ridgid TS2400 and the Bosch 4000 (Rigid wins in this man’s opinion…)

DeWalt DW744: 3 Votes

Bosch 4000: 2 Votes

(note - for easier fence adjustments one WoodNetter said “I have the Bosch too and found that if you wax the fence rails so it slides well you can tighten up the locking threshold and it will align true pretty consistently. Dry silicone lube works too, just keep it away from where the locking clamp engages.”)

Craftsman 21829: 1 Vote
Jet 708315 vs. Craftsman 21829 (SMC)

MuleCab Fence for Portable Table Saws

From the WoodNet forum thread: Looking for a portable table saw with a good fence

Also See: PM Tests Nine Portable Table Saws

For many woodworkers the router table is their second big project - second to the work bench. You can learn a great deal by making your own, plus it’s customized to your needs. 99.9% of woodworkers in forums will suggest you build your own.

This approach is great for more seasoned woodworkers who know what they need. Newbies or folks looking for a quick-fix will benefit from a pre-built table… if only to experience the limitations first hand that will inspire them to build their own.

I started out on this post because of a poster at SawmillCreek who wondered about the best router table under $250. I found a bunch of great resources for those shopping for router tables though, so those will follow the results of the SMC thread.

NOTE! The top two recommended router tables are actually over $250. Check out this search at Amazon for a wider selection of router tables, many under $250.

Bench Dog 40-031 ProMax: 3 Votes

RT-1000: 2 Votes

CMT 999.501.03 Industrio Router Table Cabinet: 1 Vote

Bosch Benchtop Router Table Model RA1181: 1 Vote

(Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table Review)

Router Table Buying Resources:
Choosing and Using a Router Table (from Rockler…)
What Kind of Router Table Do You Need?
Router Table Quest
Rockler Benchtop Router Table Review
Bosch RA1171 Benchtop Router Table
Bench Top Router Table Reviews
Trend Starter Router Table Review
This Router Table is One Tough Bulldog
Router Table Reviews and Comparisons
Handy Router Accessories: Router Table Comparison

Build Your Own Router Table Resources:
ToolCrib.com’s Ultimate Guide to Free Router Table Plans
The Router Table (Pat Warner’s Discourse on Router Tables)

A woodworker at WoodNet recently asked for advice on picking a new cordless impact drill/driver. Here’s how he plans to use the new driver:

“My use will be for driving self-tapping screws in metal building repair, pocket-hole screws in wood, deck screws, and other woodworking applications.”

Most notably, some Woodnetters advised him against getting an impact driver for those uses. They suggested he go for something with a clutch to give him more finesse for metal connecting and pocket-hole screws.

That said, they also offered up their favorite impact drivers which I have counted here for you:

Makita: 6 Votes Total
Makita 12-Volt Cordless NiMH Impact Driver: 2 Votes

Makita 14.4-Volt NiMH Cordless Impact Driver: 2 Votes

Makita 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless Impact Driver: 2 Votes

Ryobi: 2 Votes
18V Ryobi: 2 Votes

Craftsman: 2 Votes
Craftsman 14.4 volt Impact Driver: 2 Votes

Bosch: 1 Vote
Bosch PS10-2 Litheon 10.8-Volt Lithium-Ion I-Driver Kit

More Finesse:
Bosch PS20-2 Litheon 10.8-Volt Lithium-Ion Pocket Driver

Bosch PS40-2 10.8V Impact Driver

Here’s the conversation thread at Woodnet: impact drill/driver

I found it interesting that a similar poll in the Family Woodworking forum liked DeWalt cordless drills the best with Makita second. Of course, this wasn’t a poll for impact drivers, but rather just standard drills/drivers.

Cordless Drill Buying Advice:
Buying advice Cordless drills

Choosing a Cordless Drill

Top 11 Cordless Drills/Drivers FamilyWoodworking Poll

The mighty and versatile band saw… will it replace the table saw as the heart of the modern woodworker’s shop? Not likely, but it remains the goto tool of choice for curves, tenons, ripping and resawing.

There’s a multitude of woodworking forum threads and reviews about “best bandsaws…” wading through them all takes hours. How do I know? I read through them all to write this article.

To make your band saw shopping experience a bit easier I found the top three recommended band saws by the most common sizes: Benchtop, 14 inch, 17 inch and 18 inch band saws. We left out portable band saws because they’re mostly used in cutting metal - would love to hear from anyone who uses a portable regularly in woodworking… In the future, once I get an idea of which size is most popular to you guys, I’ll dig in deeper.

A quick note on the bigger band saws - almost everything I read puts Grizzly as the best value for the dollar when it comes to band saws. That said, almost everything I read said that Italian band saws are the best quality in the world. Take that for what it’s worth

>> Best Bench Top Band Saws (9-12 Inches)
Bench top band saws are typically the LEAST recommended of bench top tools. I’ve read in forums many times where woodworkers are glad to leave their bench top band saws behind and feel guilty about selling it used. THAT SAID… there are bench tops that are better than others, and there are certainly cases where a bench top band saw works perfectly well for some people.

2 quick observations: 2 wheels are typically recommended over 3 wheels for issues of blade breakage and tracking. Also… like on any saw a good blade will drastically improve your work.

Ryobi BS902: 4 votes

Delta SM400: 2 votes

Rikon 10” 10-300 BS Mini: 2 votes

Benchtop Band Saw Resources:
Bench-top Band Saw-Which Is Better??
Benchtop Bandsaw Effectiveness
Why Do I need a 14″ Band Saw? Cry For Help.
Rikon 10” 10-300 BS Mini Review

>> Best 14 Inch Band Saws
14 Inch Band Saws are the band saw size of choice for most serious hobbyists woodworkers. It all depends on the size of your projects and why you’re buying a band saw of course, but the 14 inch is pretty much the standard size and most folks recommend that the bench top shoppers put their $100-150 into a 14 inch floor standing model.

Within the 14 inch size range you can pay anywhere from ~$300 - $1,200 or so.

Delta 28-276 14-Inch Band Saw: 5 Votes

Craftsman 14 in. Band Saw: 4 Votes

RIKON Model # 10-325: 3 Votes

Grizzly G0555 The Ultimate 14″ Bandsaw: 2 Votes

14 Inch Band Saw Resources:
14′’ band saws (WoodNet forum thread)
14-Inch Band Saws (great for comparing high end 14 inch band saws for professional use)
Is the Craftsman 14 inch Bandsaw worth it?
Delta 28-203 14″ Band Saw
Ridgid BS1400 Band Saw Tool Review

>> The Best 17 Inch Band Saws
You could be just as hampered by a 14″ band saw as by a bench top if your projects call for higher capacity. If you’re building boats or other large wooden structures then you might just be in the market for a larger band saw.

Some 18 inchers got mixed up below. That’s ok because some 19″ machines got mixed up in the 18 inch section too.

A quick note: look for cast iron wheels.

17″ Grizzly G0513: 6 Votes

RIKON Model # 10-345 18″ Bandsaw: 3 Votes

Bridgewood BW-17WBS: 3 Votes

17 Inch Band Saw Resources:
Bridgewood BW-17WBS vs. Grizzly 513
Which 17″ bandsaw?
Various bandsaw questions…long (focuses on larger model band saws)

>> Best 18 Inch Band Saws
If you’re getting an 18 inch, why not go for a 20? Well, price is probably your biggest factor once you get up to this size of a machine… Once you know you need at least an 18 inch machine think long and hard about whether it’s something that can grow with you or if it’s something you will grow out of.

Grizzly G0514X 19″ 3 HP Extreme Series Bandsaw: 5 votes

RIKON Model # 10-345 18″ Bandsaw: 4 Votes

JET 710750 JWBS-18X 18-Inch Bandsaw: 3 Votes

Steel City 18″ Industrial Bandsaw model 50250: 2 votes

Agazzani 18 inch: 2 votes

18 Inch Band Saw Resources:
Agazzani 18″ Bandsaw
Help me buy a bandsaw and blades!!!!!!! (18 inches… in WoodNet)
Over all what is the best 18″ bandsaw for the money?
Why buy a 15 inch bandsaw? (when you could get a 20 inch…)

General Band Saw Buying Resources:
Compilation of “Best Band Saw” threads. Which Band Saw? (this post helped me kick start this article…)
A Band Saw Buying Guide: 6 Considerations That Save Woodworkers Money
Woodworking Without A Table Saw
Choosing a “Starter” Bandsaw Mill

If you’ve been on the market for a biscuit (aka plate) joiner you know that the prices range pretty widely… From the $700 Festool Domino joining system (a joiner, but not a biscuit joiner) and $400 Lamellos right on down to $15 clamps and a $2 bottle of glue there are joinery tools and methods to suit every budget.

A post at WoodNet caught my eye recently when a woodworker asked: “I need reccomendations for a joiner, I know Lameno’s are good but they also cost too much. Does anyone have any reccomendations uner $200.”

The good folks at Woodnet certainly DID have some recommendations. Here they are, in order of the number of votes they got. I found it interesting that some woodworkers suggested he not get a biscuit joiner at all.

The runaway favorite is the Porter Cable 557… Check out the results of the best $200 biscuit joiner below.

Porter-Cable 557: 7 votes

Porter-Cable 557 7.5 Amp Plate Joiner >>

DeWalt DW682K: 4 votes

DeWalt DW682K Heavy-Duty 6.5 Amp Plate Joiner >>

Freud JS102: 4 votes

Freud JS102 6.5 Amp Plate Joiner with Tilting Fence >>

Other joining methods:
“One low cost way join boards for glue up is to use a 1/4 inch slot cutter bit in your router, works as well as biscuts for a lot less money. bb plywood makes good splines.”

slot cutter router bits…

I think your money is better spent on quality clamps for panels.

Other Resources:
Which biscuit joiner?? (WoodNet Thread)
The Seven Basics of Biscuit Joinery

So… what have you learned the hard way? Bill Huber asked his buddies over at SawmillCreek and got over 60 responses! There are some SCARY answers over there, and some that will get you in trouble if you read them at work because you’ll probably end up laughing out loud.

I read through all of them and took out the top 8 lessons that I think will be most useful to woodworkers everywhere… Especially #8

1) When using little brass screws…

You have to pre-drill as deep as the screw in hardwood and you better use bees wax on them and then you don’t tighten them like they were a 5/16th bolt or…. they snap right off.
-Bill Huber

2) What I have learned the hard way is to make sure your collet is real tight on the router. I was making box joints for the first time a few months ago, first bunch fit like a dream….then gaps started developing. Huh? Ohhh, the fingers are getting longer. The up-spirial bit was slowing creeping up on each cut.
-Dave Watkins

3) it’s only wood, and it does grow on trees….don’t beat yourself up over mistakes
-scott spencer

4) Use zero clearance inserts on the TS. I have a permanent lump on one finger from some splinters shooting back that’s like a sticky note reminder.
-Doug Shepard

5) Don’t try to trim even the slightest amount of material off in the router table doing a pull cut w/o ample feather boards and a big push block.
- Bill Wyko

6) The Delta mobile base for the Unisaw doesn’t fit the Delta Hybrid Tablesaw.
- Jesse Espe

7) Don’t assume that someone elses description of a used tool is as the same as yours would be, or up to your standards…Ask specific questions before buying. Not that someone is necessarily trying to rip you off, but they may just have a different perception of “accurate”, ” great condition”, “good user” etc.
- Sean Kinn

8) If you tell your wife you ran into an old girl freind at the store and your wife asks how did she look…….lie.
- Mike Seals

So, woodworkers… what did YOU learn the hard way? Leave your lessons in the comments on this post!

There are many many more stories over at SawmillCreek: So what did you learn the HARD way…

If you’d asked me a year ago I would have told you one router is all you need. If you’d asked me yesterday I would have told you two should do it - one for a bench and one for hand held work. After reading a recent thread in WoodNet today well it looks like two is just the beginning…

From reading through the thread it appears that the more seasoned woodworkers use multiple routers because they don’t like the setup and break down time if you’re using lots of different setups/jigs in your woodworking. Ultimately this is the sort of thing you learn with time.

Here’s the original question…WoodNetter photog says “I have a Hitachi M12V in the table and a Dewalt 618 3 pack.. The D-handle sits on an offset base, the fixed base is good and the plunge base according to Pat Warner “Obviates the DW621″. What’s not to like here? Or more correctly, “What more do I need?”

Responses from WoodNetters:

The only reason I can come up with to get another router is to save bit changes and in particular to ease the making of through dovetails (which I do occasionally) by having the straight and dovetail bits dialed in and ready to go in separate routers.”

I own several routers and its great not have to change and adjust bits. I would never buy alot of new routers but a used router at a good price gets a look from me everytime. - Grainraiser

Over 20 here… 6 are in tables - Stwood (Pro-woodworker)

1. Milwaukee 5626 in Table
2. Dewalt 621 with Pat Warner Base - Workhorse handheld router. I use this for mortising, edge profiling (more on this later), heck…just about everything….it’s my “go to router”
3. PC 890 with Pat Warner Base- Dedicated for PC 4210 HB DT
4. PC 890 with Pat Warner Base - Dedicated for Leigh Jig Though DTs with DT Bit
5. PC 690 with Pat Warner Base - - Dedicated for Leigh Jig Though DTs with Straight Bit - loosetoe

I don’t plunge alot, but it’s pretty handy to have another hand router on set up when the plunger is set up for a specific task. - knotscott

Id have to count but i have at least 8 or 9 - Dennis Thomas

Doing my kitchen remodel. I got the colt with a custom base and bottom bearing bit doing edge band trimming. I got the hand held 890 doing veneer trimming. I got the 890 that mostly sits in the table doing half-blind DT’s on the Leigh and I had to pull out the back-up vintage PC 1100 R2D2 for veneer repair work (basically inlay work). I think I need at least one more router.

Once you got a bit set up for something like a DT jig, you really don’t want to change it during a project. - Mr_Mike

Gee, I thought I had a lot at 15. - EightFingers

If you value your time, and your accuracy, multiple routers is a necessity. I am self-employed and find that I still don’t have enough sometimes, even though I have 6 full-size and 4 trim size routers. - Sassafrasman

Milwaulkee 5625 in a table
Bosch Colt for small tasks. Think there’s a small round over bit that’s been in there for a while and used frequently.
PC690 I use strictly for PC4212 jig
Milwaulkee 5616 is my go to router for handheld work when a plunge isn’t needed.
Freud FT2200 - my latest addition for plunging as I really didn’t like the PC690 as a plunger. - JTS

Go read the whole WoodNet thread here if you like: Own Two Handheld Routers? Why?

Other Router Resources:
Best Router for Beginning Woodworker?
A Router Buying Guide for the First Time Router Buyer
Router Woodworking (Pat Warner’s router site)

A funny thread started over at the WoodNet.net forum that I thought you’d get a kick out of… add your own to the comments if you want

When Norm stops by to borrow something. - Mark A Smith

When your HOA (home owners association) accuses you of running a commercial business and the only proof is that your garage is full of woodworking tools. - KWaugh

You look at the Grizzly catalog and determine there is nothing that you don’t already have at least one of… - Curlycherry

when going to the tool store isn’t as much fun because you either have it or have better… - guyk

1 - your homeowners insurance is less than the insurance on your tools

2 - you hold off on that addition to the house because you need one for your shop first.

3 - your wife doesn’t even blink an eye when the truck arrive with something new, and knows the driver on a first name basis along with the names and ages of his kids.

4 - you can’t tell if this tool came before or after your last child

5 - a total stranger stops by to ask if this is the rental store

6 - the mfg parts department calls to ask if you have an extra widget available.

7 - you can’t think of a single thing to put on your Christmas list.

hcbph

Heh. I’m sure you can relate Check out the whole thread over at WoodNet: you know you have to many tools when…

This question comes up all the time in woodworking forums: if you’re already laying down the cash for a cabinet saw why not just get the 5HP model instead of the 3HP? Now, as someone who drives a (cheap) 4 cylinder station wagon because of gas mileage you know I’m the thrifty type who doesn’t go for power when power’s not necessary. I’d be the first one to ask if you could get away with buying a hybrid saw instead of a cabinet saw

If you’ve already picked out your top three cabinet saws though and you’re weighing the finer points then this question of horse power can be a big one - kinda like what college are you sending your first born to. Here are some questions and general observations that should make your decision a little easier…

Guiding responses from Woodnet.net include:

1) “I would say the only advantage to a 5HP saw would be the higher feed rate possible with a power feeder. This would really only be useful if you plan on doing large production runs. The only way I’ve been able to bog down a 3HP saw hand feeding is by using an incorrect blade. For example using an 80 tooth crosscut blade for ripping 3″ maple. Even with a power feeder the time you will save with a 5HP saw is nearly non-existant.”

2) “The true advantage is if you are ripping thick hardwoods. And a lot of it. When I chose the 5hp option in my General cabinet saw (1 phase) I did so knowing I’d be cutting a fair amount of wet wood. I live in timber country, so much of my lumber comes to me free from downed trees milled by friends. For average work, 5hp is overkill. However, when it comes time to sell, you will attract more buyers from commercial shops who favor heavier grade equipment that can run all day long.”

3) “Of far more importance is a good blade. Take that extra $200 and buy yourself a couple Forrest blades when they go on sale.”

4) “I have the 3 HP Uni and can’t imagine it will ever be put to its limits in my hobby shop. A 5HP is over kill and instead of throwing $200 at something you’ll never reap the benefits from I would buy the 3HP and take the extra $200 and spend it on accessories.”

5) “At $200 the difference in price between the two is trivial (in my opinion), but on the flip side, the need for the 5 hp is not that strong either. I ran a professional shop with a 3 hp and never wished I had more, nor have I come close to fully loading the 3 hp.”

Resources:
Do I need a 5hp Unisaw?

What advantages to a 5hp -1 phase saw vs 3hp -1 phase

A Table Saw Buying Guide: Benchtop vs Contractor vs Cabinet vs Hybrid