Whenever a woodworker mentions he’s in the market for a hybrid table saw there’s always someone standing around to tell him he should just take the money and invest in a used cabinet saw.

A SawmillCreek member (a Creeker) asked his fellow woodworkers to help him evaluate a used Powermatic 66 opportunity he found online. I thought there was some great advice in the thread and it inspired me to pull out the best ideas as well as hunt down some other resources for folks buying used table saws.

Here’s the opportunity that a woodworker asked his fellow creekers to evaluate:

1) a used Powermatic 66 with a Baldor 3HP, 1-ph, for around $1,400. It’s 5-7 years old.

2) It looks to be in pretty good shape from the pictures (a little rust on top that should be able to remove).

3) I will have to drive about 7 hours to get it and the person that is selling it doesn’t have 220V to fire it up.

So he’s got a great price dangling in front of him, but there’s a seven hour drive and he will have no way of telling if the motor’s working because there’s no power.

Here’s some of the best advice from the thread:

1) Price is very fair if the machine is in working order. You can still check the gears/bearings for wear/slop even w/o motor running. 14HR round trip adds to the cost with gas prices, but they just don’t make um like they used to.

Notice you see very few PM66’s for sale used? Ever wonder why?

2) offer the guy 1000 for it sight unseen. That way you are covered even if it needs a motor. Or you could say, I will give you a grand for it sight unseen, or 1400 if you can plug it in and see it cut a board.

3) As for the motor. smell it. If they let the smoke out you can smell it. Other than burning it up, not much else serious can go wrong. Try taking the belts off and truning the motor over by hand. There are just two bolts that hold the motor in place. Loosen them and put slack in the belts and you can check how the bearings in the motor and arbor feel.

4) As for what can go wrong with the saw? Not much, the pinion gears some times need adjusting to keep the tilt and lift of the trunnion moving smoothly and easily. Typically the magnetic starters are the first thing to really go out, but I’ve only seen it happen to one saw personally.

5) Once there make sure that the trunion moves freely (if gunked up then clean the trunion and try). Also check the top for flatness. Don’t bother too much with the wings as they can be shimmed and adjusted properly. Also check the flatness and squarness of the fence. That plastic material can be a PIA to get flat. You may notice bumps in the fence where the fence face is bolted on to the body. You may need to disassemble and flatten the mounting face. Also check for arbor runnout and belt adjustment.

Check out the full thread here: Used Powermatic 66 vs. New Advice

Now all that great advice on buying a used Powermatic 66 got me to thinking about those folks out there who might be interested in other used table saws. Some of the advice I quoted above could be recycled for other brands. Some not.

Anyways, I found some other used table saw buying resources and include links and excerpts below for folks who’d like to assemble a used table saw buying checklist. Feel free to add your suggestions to the comments!

From SawdustMaking:

1) What was your overall first impression of the machine? Are there any obvious signs of abuse or neglect, broken knobs, damaged parts, rusty or warped table.

2) Why is the saw for sale, has the seller upgraded or replaced it wth an equivalent model, if you can see no improvement be wary.

3) Plug the saw in and listen and feel how it runs, keep in mind that if the saw has sat around for any length of time the belt will not be a supple as it should be and will thump for a while.

4) Check the rip fence does it move smoothly across the table and lock solidly, bear in mind that this seems to be the weakest link on any saw and there are aftermarket replacements that are superior to the orginal.

Read: Buying a Used Table Saw from the SawdustMaking site >>

From the Rigid Forum:

1) ask the seller to run a cut
2) raise & lower the blade through its full range
3) angle the blade through its full range

See: How would you check out a used table saw? >>

Related resources:
5 Questions You Should Ask Before Buying Reconditioned Power Tools
A Table Saw Buying Guide: Benchtop vs Contractor vs Cabinet vs Hybrid

The only thing that wood glue bonds better than wood is fabric. So how can you get wood glue and wood glue stains out of those work shirts that need to stay presentable? An SMCreeker said: “Over the past year I’ve had a more than a few cases of regular yellow glue smearing and then drying into the fabric of my work shirts. Anyone know a trick for removing it?”

Some helpful suggestions followed… for those of you who get glue on the wrong clothes!

Helpful suggestions:

1) Use Titebond:
One of the reasons I use regular Titebond whenever I can……which is for about 99+% of my work. I run a glueline - smooth and spread it with my finger - wipe finger on pants - do the clamping. When the pants go through the washer (and somethimes there’s enough dried glue to make a real stiff patch) it’s never failed to all come out.

2) Try Vinegar:
Try white vinegar first. If that’s ineffective, try amonia, but do it first in an inconspicuous inside area to be sure that the fabric color is not damaged. It’s generally best to get the glue out immediately with water before it cures, but if it’s hard, it’s not easy. White glue is usually water soluble. Type II PVA is water resistent; hence the vinegar, etc., recommendation. Type III PVA will be even tougher…

3) Suggestions from a Pro Dry-Cleaner:
a. take an old rag that is clean, lay it over the stain, and hit it with an iron on it’s hottest setting. If the glue can be heated up to the point of re-liquifying, you may be able to wipe most of it off.

b. There is a product in our industry we use for plasticized adhesives called amyl acetate. If you can soak the stain with this stuff for hours, then maybe it will start to break it down. If it works, then just flush it out with naptha or mineral spirits in a rag.

4) Boiling Water:
Put the area with the glue into boiling water. Boiling water softens PVA adhesive and a stiff bristled brush like a fingernail brush should remove the softened glue.

5) De-Glue Goo
De-Glue Goo (a solvent that smells suspiciously of vinegar and costs more…)

From the thread: Removing dried glue . . . from your shirt?

Also note, according to another SMC thread on clamping time you have about 20 minutes before that glue sets

A WoodNetter posted this complaint to the forum: “I’m killing myself trying to get sheetgoods home from the borg… there must be a better way. I have a small SUV which just isn’t cutting it.”

Does this sound like you?

Well, there’s no easy or simple way to do it, there are however lots of different ways you could try out if you’re hauling impaired. I went through and counted up how the majority of WoodNetters do it, and then took notes from what they wrote regarding plusses and minuses for some of the methods.

1) Pickup Truck: 14
By far the most popular method for getting sheet goods home or to the job site. However it may not be worth it, as some folks suggested, to buy a beater truck just for hauling sheet goods. Then again, if you’re hauling a lot more than sheet goods it might work for you. Note also that many guys who hauled sheet goods home in trucks ALSO had them cut up at the store to make them easier to haul.

PU Quotes:
- The beater p/u doesn’t get run enough to justify having it, adds a blight to your driveway, and the cost for registration, inspection, etc. doesn’t seem worth the convenience.

- The primary p/u is spendy - to buy, insure, but mostly to fill the tank. In both cases (sans cap) the weather often dictated if I could pick up ply goods, which was a major PITA.

2) Trailer: 8
The trailer is probably your best bet if you’re looking for a solution JUST for hauling sheet goods. Especially if you have a lot of hauling in your future that would justify the cost (looks like $200-$800 or so).

Trailer Quotes:
4×8 trailer that folds up against the wall when not in use - they go on sale at HF - I ended up paying about $180 for mine (12″ wheels). It’s been really useful for a lot of things and since it folds against the wall it only has a footprint of 2′x5′

- The trailer has most of the benefits of the p/u truck, with none of the expense. The one I bought has a tilt bed: if I pull the pin, the whole trailer becomes a ramp which reaches to the ground. It’s configurable for stake body or flatbed and if I ever get to it, I’m going to make it weather-tight. It costs nothing to insure, burns no gas, requires no inspection, and is only $6/year to register. I don’t mind beating the crap out of the bed with trash, stones, etc., as I did when I had a p/u. The only downsides: storage (I chain mine up at work), having to hitch/un-hitch, and having to develop some mad backing-up skills.”

3) Have Store Cut Sheet Goods Smaller: 7
This sounds like a fairly risky option for a couple of reasons (see below). Still, it’s a highly popular method for making sheet goods more manageable.

Cutting Sheet Goods Smaller at Store:
“When you have them cut plywood with the panel saw, make sure you allow at least an inch of waste on the crosscuts. Their panels saws never have sharp blades, and the operators cut full speed ahead.”

- The store cuts are abysmal, there’s never anyone available to run the saw, and you can’t change your plans after the cuts are made.

“2 out of the last 10 times I had HD do it they cut it at the wrong height. Luckily I checked after their cut and they cut me another.”

4) Have Sheet Goods Delivered: 4
Often if you order over a certain amount you can have your sheet goods delivered right to your door. Save up your orders and buy in bulk. In some cases you have to spend over $400… Your mileage will certainly vary.

5) Mini Van: 3
Fold down the seats and move the kids stuff out of the way. You’re ready to haul. You may not get as much loaded in but mini vans can still haul sheet goods. Just ask my dad - he’s been doing it for years

6) on top of car/van: 2
This should be a last-choice kind of solution for hauling sheet goods. I think this quote sums it up nicely: “The roof racks are iffy at highway speeds, and loading, securing, and unloading is a PITA.”

7) Home Depot Rental Truck: 1
Often the borgs rent trucks to their customers for moving lots of goods around. $20+ bucks or so will get you a truck… but… “The HD rental truck is first-come, first-served, can’t be reserved, and is often not available or late being returned. The multiple trips add a lot of time to your shopping.”

8) build your own panel saw: 1
One WoodNetter suggested building your own panel saw in the garage so you can more easily get sheet goods into your woodshop. This isn’t about getting them home so much, but I thought it was a good idea.

Panel Saw Woodworking Plan ($5.95)

9) Carry an 18v Circ Saw: 1
One WoodNetter always goes prepared when buying wood by bringing an 18v circ saw he can use to break down sheet goods no matter where he finds them.

Sheet Good Grippers:
gorilla grippers
DIY Grippers

Other Resources:
Panel Saw Please
Woodworking Without A Table Saw
Tips for Cutting Plywood
Steve 68’s woodworking blog (Steve provided a great deal of the quotes above…)

How do you handle loaning out your power tools? If you’re like most woodworkers you have a very strict policy, whether it’s a qualified yes, a definite yes, or a loud, firm and final NO WAY. A thread over at WoodNet asks the simple question, “what is your policy with lending tools or supplies to family/friends?”

48 comments later you’ll find a manual on how to (and how not to) lend tools so that you protect yourself AND the person you’re potentially lending to.

There are some definite trends in the replies. I read through and tried to group them according to policy. Some guys combined “rules” of lending so I broke those apart too so you can mix and match if you’re still figuring out what policy works best for you. Plus, some of these rules might apply to some of your tools and not others.

You’ll notice also that rules 1 and 7 are complete contradictions. I never said these were 7 clear rules of loaning out your power tools

1) Never Lend Tools to Anyone, Ever
2) Lend Tools, But Always Go With Them
3) Lend “Replaced” Tools
4) Lend Tools Only to Trusted Friends/Family
5) Sometimes You Bite the Bullet (esp. for family)
6) Use a Replace the Blade/Bit Policy
7) Always Lend Tools Trustingly

1) Never Lend Tools to Anyone, Ever
There are three reasons woodworkers give for following this rule. The first is that they’ve been badly burned in the past. One woodworker, writing in from Brazil, said he lost over 10,000 euros when a neighbor disappeared with tools he’d been borrowing. The second reason given is that the woodworker runs a wood shop and can’t loan out tools for business reasons. The third reason is fear of a negligence lawsuit if the person borrowing the tool happens to hurt himself.

This rule is also known as the “Tools Stay in the Shop” rule, and can sometimes include letting people use your tools in shop.

2) Lend Tools, But Always Go With Them
This was one of the most frequently mentioned rule of lending tools. Most woodworkers didn’t trust people the skill levels of the people they loaned tools to. They said they’d loan tools but ONLY if they went and used the tool themselves on the job. This protects them from getting damaged tools back.

3) Lend “Replaced” Tools
Often times I read how woodworkers simply saved their replaced but still working tools for borrowers. This could eat into your costs as you’re not reselling them though. A subset of this rule is only lending out tools that you can afford to lose - some woodworkers buy extra sets of commonly borrowed tools at yard sales. One person said he saved old, dull blades for lending. Another member said this was actually a dangerous idea as people are more likely to hurt themselves with a dull blade than a sharp one.

4) Lend Tools Only to Trusted Circle of Friends/Family
Another large group of woodworkers said they’d lend tools only to people who’d earned their trust. Usually this was to fellow woodworkers who replaced blades before returning and generally treated the tool as they would their own (or better). Often there were woodworkers who made exception to Rule 1 (Never, to No One) with Rule 4.

5) Sometimes You Bite the Bullet (esp. for family)
There were a couple of woodworkers who mentioned that with family it’s tougher to say no and to add qualifiers. One guy, whose dad was a mechanic, abused tools by using them for jobs they weren’t intended. But… it’s his dad, so he just bites the bullet. These are the cases where you just have to shrug your shoulders and take your beating.

6) Replace the Blade/Bit Policy
Some woodworkers lent out their power tools but only with the understanding that the borrower would replace the blade or bit when they finished. They used the replacement blade or bit when lending the tool to the next borrower. This forces the borrower to accept that nothing’s free when it comes to power tools, and makes them appreciate the importance of upkeep.

7) Always Lend Tools Trustingly
Believe it or not there were two or three woodworkers who believed in always lending tools trustingly. Mostly this was because they’d had a woodworker loan them tools and wisdom without knowing them at all. They believed strongly in passing this along to others.

How about you? What are your rules and policies for lending out your power tools? Comment below and be sure to check out the whole WoodNet thread for more stories!

Read the WoodNet Thread:
What is your policy with lending tools or supplies to family/friends?

Well, we all know he’s a highly influential carpenter… He ranked #1 in our poll of 3 forums (see ToolCrib.com’s Guide to Your 31 Most Influential Woodworkers). But is he really a master carpenter?

This is the question that a newbie Woodnetter posted. There are 99 responses, and right off the bat one WoodNet member posted a little icon of a smiley-guy eating a bag of popcorn. That’s my feeling exactly about a post like this - grab some snacks, this is going to be entertaining!

I counted up the results for you - some yeses were implied more than written as yes, so you’ll have to take my word for count accuracy here

WoodNet’s Opinion: is Norm Abram a Master Carpenter?

Yes: 21
No: 10

Some folks, in the “Yes” camp, linked to this bonnet-topped Queen Anne-legged tiger maple highboy Norm reproduced…

Woodnetter Quotes that Made Me Go “hmm… Good Point”:

The show is designed and presented for novice woodworkers, and serves that market quite well. His projects are meant for wide appeal, if he were to build a reproduction piece like the type I favor doing, it would be a pretty long and often tedious show. It would also be well out of the ability level of the target audience.

From what I’ve observed; Norm is a high level general carpenter and mid level furniture maker. He may be a better furniture maker than the show allows.

In teaching, a Master Teacher is someone qualified to teach other teachers. Following that definition, I would say that Norm Abram is definitely a Master Woodworker.

Whether or not he is a “master” is an exercise in semantics.

There are many people out there who have as much or more technical/artistic ability as Norm, but only he and a very few others have been successful at doing it in front of a camera. That takes more than the ability to do good woodworking/carpentry, which is what sets him(and those few others) apart.

So there you have it folks, conclusive evidence that Norm Abram is a master woodworker If you have opinions, I’d love to hear them.

And of course, visit the post for some fun and interesting debate: Would you consider Norm Abram from NYW a master woodworker?

Additional Resources:
Birth of NYW: Yankee’s Shop True to Name
ToolCrib.com’s Guide to Your 31 Most Influential Woodworkers

A member at the SawmillCreek forum asked his fellow creekers whether they had TVs in their shops… he needed some data to show to his wife because he was seeking her agreement on a new TV.

I’m someone who’s easily distracted so having a TV on while I’m working would drive me nuts. I was blown away by the results though… I tallied the responses from the thread here - there were 52 comments in the thread.

Have a TV: 27

NO tv, NO music: 3

For all you woodworkers who DO have a TV on in the shop I pulled out a couple of warning-type comments.

Comments:

1) I did…. Until I was distracted and dadoed my finger. Had the TV on basically as background noise while ripping stock, something on TV caught my attention for a fraction of a second, then the saw blade got my attention in a big way! Stupid $2700 emergency room mistake on my part. I’ll just stick to the radio.

2) Used to, but like Dave it was to easy to get stareitis and end up watching TV all afternoon, it finally broke and I get much more done now.

Installed a tri amped stereo and a pair of DIY speakers simliar to the JBL 100 series, and that is on when I’m in the garage now.

Although we have a old 19″ TV that just sits in the basement and someday I might make a entertainment cabinet for the garage and bring it out there…someday.

But I could see shutting a TV off when your playing with sharp tools.

Well, I’m definitely a NO TV guy myself, though there were a few people who said they watched how-to DVDs or programs out there, which makes sense.

How about you? Where do you stand?

Read the whole thread: TV in the shop?

Have you ever dropped tens of dollars or even hundreds on a woodworking tool or accessory that you never used? These are the tools that are collecting dust instead of making it… Maybe it was a deal too good to pass up. Maybe it was an accessory to your table saw or router. No matter how you came by it though, you’ve never found use for it.

The WoodNetter Mike C asked a similar question recently and we went and tallied up the responses to bring you the top five woodworking tools we buy but never use… And for the record “never use” roughly means “haven’t used once in the past year.”

Read through the list and let it be a warning to you… not that you shouldn’t buy any of these tools, but just to think twice before you do. Also, be sure to scroll all the way to the bottom for an interesting theory… or even a conspiracy… about why we buy needless tools

Disclaimer: This survey represents a single forum’s opinions. There are different prevailing methods at different forums so don’t take this as the be-all end-all list of what tools are important in woodworking!

First off, from the thread are the guys whose frugality goes above and beyond the call of duty. These are they guys who, to the best of their knowledge and memory, claim to never have purchased a tool they didn’t use. Never bought a tool I didn’t use: 5

And here are the top 5 woodworking tools we buy but never use:

1) Jigs: 12

Woodcraft Tenon Jig: 5
Kreg pocket jig: 2
Dovetail Jig: 2
Taper jig (well I used it once, does that count?)
dowel hole jig
Beadlock Jig

2) Router/Bits/Kits: 6

Sears El-Cheapo routers
Router
Router Bushings
Cheap GMC router kit
Most of the bits in my first router bit set
Router Bits

3) Mortiser: 5

Delta Mortiser: 3
Mortiser
DP mortiser attachment

4) Scroll Saw: 5

5) Biscuit Joiner: 2

Any surprises there? I for one didn’t expect to see so many scroll saws. There was one guy in the thread who suggested that folks who didn’t use their scroll saws just didn’t know what they were missing.

Ok, so here’s the rest of the tools mentioned in the thread, followed by the conspiracy I mentioned earlier…

Everything Else (in no particular order):

Roto Zip
ROS
TS Blades
HVLP Spray gun
Pneumatic sander, nailers and other air tools
3 HF Mobile Bases
6″ Band Saw Riser ( I have installed it but have yet to cut anything over a few inches tall)
Stanley 38 fence
Delta drum sanding kit (duplicates most of my sanding drums)
Sander sitter
hvlp spray gun
HF wet grinder
tin snips
soldering iron
framing nailer
transfer punch set
hole punch set
Record #5 plane
hand held oscilating spindle sander
Table for jig saw that makes it a scroll saw.
jet wooden handscrew clamps
Stock miter guage that came with my table saw (never used it - just bought a higher quality miter guage that I use a lot)

The “Norm Abram Conspiracy” Explanation for Unused Tools:
This Woodnetter brings up a very good point…

Ok, maybe this is a complete coincidence, but do you see a trend here??? Take a look at the reoccurring tools:

Mortiser
Biscuit Joiner
Tenoning Jig
Dovetail Jig

Now think of the tools that Norm uses almost every show. Coincidence??? I think we may have watched one too many NYW episodes and thought “Oh ya, I need one of those!”

Cue spooky music

Resources:
How many purchased tools you never used?
The 11 Top Woodworking Power Tools That Give 100% Satisfaction or Better
Best Biscuit Joiner Under $200?
2 Part Video Guide to Buying a Scroll Saw

Let’s start this out with a relevant quote: “the worst time to find out about no coverage is after a loss.”

That said, we’re not insurers. In fact, we had to spell check the word “insurers” just to get it spelled right. I’m guessing you already knew that anything you read in this post needs to be checked out with your personal insurance agent.

A recent thread in WoodNet got me thinking insurance and tool coverage, and so I read through it and pulled out some of the best information for you.

1) do a video inventory showing serial numbers, model number, and all that. don’t forget to store said video somewhere other than your house.

2) If you have a question on coverage and a agent tells you “don’t worry, it’s covered” be sure to get it in writing.

3) From a former claims adjuster:
We keep a list with model and serial numbers. We also take a video of our stuff. We do a walk thru with the video, starting in the kitchen, open the doors and drawers of cabinets, cubboards etc. We do each room. Close up video’s of valuables, owner manuels, receipts, etc. As long as you plan ahead and get the paperwork, manuels,receipts etc ready and don’t attempt to outshine Cecil b DeMille it won’t take that long. Big manilla envelope holds it all. A copy is kept at my BIL’s home and we keep a copy of his stuff here.

4) One member recommended using his woodshop software program ShopFileR for keeping records. We haven’t used it and only mention it here for you to check out yourself.

5) Not really advice, but a best of a bad situation scenario:
I actually had a break in while on vacation a few years back and got wiped out except for my table saw that could not be moved because it was blocked in by my car. I went round and round with State Farm about my coverage because I could not show them all of my receipts (moving a few times makes you get rid of things). The only thing that saved my bacon was the fact that I had all of my service manuals in two three ring binders with the serial numbers of each piece recorded on the front of them.

Resources:
Here’s the original WoodNet thread that set this post off: Are your tools insured?

And here’s a thread that’s more business oriented from over at the ContractorTalk forum: Tool Insurance

I love woodworking forums. The free flow of information, the friendships, the “strong discussions” about power tools… One of my favorite forums remains FamilyWoodworking.org, both for the spirit in which they built it and the friendliness of the guys posting there.

Here’s an example of what I consider to be a “gem” of a Family Woodworking post: “My Take on Wood Hinges” by Alex Reid. Reid describes and documents his process for building gorgeous wooden hinges, and then receives suggestions from forum members on alterations.

From his introduction:

“In this tutorial for making and installing wooden hinges I use ebony blanks cut and milled to a specific size related to the size of my cutting bit. I use a 3.2mm (1/8”) cutting bit mounted in my router table. The width of the blank will therefore be 3.2 multiplied by the number of fingers and slots. I want a hinge that has 4 fingers/3 slots and the mate will have 3 fingers/4 slots. So the width of my hinge will be 3.2×7=22.4. (You can also make them a little wider and cut to size on the table saw after slotting the finger joints). The length of the blanks will be any length desired but should be around 75mm (3”) for ease of clamping and cutting on the finger joint jig. The thickness of the blank will be 6mm or if you are working in inches 1/4” will work well. (Here also you can use a thicker blank and re-saw later for a production run).”

His tutorial spans several posts in the forum so he put the entire thing in a PDF file for those of you who’d like to print it out and work from home:

Wooden Hinge Making Tutorial (PDF)

Read the forum post here: My Take on Wood Hinges

A WoodNetter wrote in to his buddies to ask about the lines left in his wood by his 18″ Delta drum sander.

Here’s what he said:

“I’m wondering if anyone can help me out in eliminating lines in the wood after sanding on a drum sander (18″ Delta).

I’ve ran the grit schedule of 80, 120, and I”m getting ready to do 220, but the lines continue to show in the wood. I want to get a clean sand with the 220 if possible to stain next.

How are manufacturers machining the wood clean for staining?”

And here’s a note on the size of his project, which he mentions further on in the post:

“I currently have 400 bf of Rail and Stiles to sand as well as bookmatched door panels that are approximately 600 bf. This doesn’t include the next 3 projects, just a very large 5 piece entertainment system.”

Some folks suggested that this is just the way it is:

“We sand them to about 120 then hand sand with an ROS to stain.”

“break out the ROS and the vibrating sander it is just the way it is.”

Some recommended a wide belt sander:

“I had a Woodmaster drum sander that did as you say, left streaks in the wood. I tried premium paper, no difference. Finally I sold it and bought a widebelt, that all but eliminated the problem…”

An alternate view - “A widebelt sander does have a reduced line because the belt moves side to side as the tracking system keeps the belt in the center of the machine, but it still leaves lines.”

Others suggested he fix his sand paper:

“You can knock down those high pieces of grit on the sanding drums with a piece of sandpaper. Just make sure you dont use a lower grit than that of the drumpaper.”

“those erasers for sandpaper work great also “

A Note On Sanding Glue Ups:

“when sanding glue ups i scrape the excess glue first then run the panels at a slight angle so the glue does not get pushed down the same line and build up on the paper.”

Finally, the original poster has the idea that he can make a ROS (random orbit sander) out of his drill press.

In fact, he rigged something up already on his drill press that saves him quite a bit of time, that is, “a way to make a small ROS Head to place in my drill press and run through my feeder.”

“I took a 9″ circle of ply, put industrial strength velcro on it and some 150 grit paper put it in my chuck in my drill press, and set it up on my feeder. It worked pretty well and the lines are a little easier to remove than the drum sander lines. I am working on an attachment to create a ROS on the drill press with some sort of ecentric shaft. If I can create somewhat of a ROS and can cut my work in 1/2 on the sanding, it will save me 2 weeks worth of heavy sanding.”

Read the full WoodNet post here: Drum Sander Lines